In the late 1970s, I was working on my private pilot license and dreamed
of building a homebuilt airplane. The Bowers Fly Baby biplane was the first
choice based on my nearly non-existent budget since it was all-wood and
used a 65 HP engine. What I really wanted was an EAA Acro-Sport biplane.
I was a member of the Experimental Aircraft Association (EAA) at the time
and first learned of it in their monthly magazine. This scale rendition
apprearing in the November 1974 American Aircraft Modeler really made me
want to build one. Unlike the Pitts Special or the Christian Eagle, the
Acro-Sport can be tackled by most people of average building skills, and
cost a whole lot less for materials and powerplant.
An Airplanes and Rockets website visitor asked that I post this article
for reference while building the model from an old set of plans that he
has. Hopefully, he will send a photo of the completed craft once it's ready
The home-builders' aerobatic bipe that set the aviation world
afire with its good looks and superb flight performance is now a basement
project for the modeler.
By Robert Schultheis
a little blue and white bipe sitting over on the north end of the field
that you are going to flip over. The EAA has done it again." So spoke fellow
flier Ken Hinkel at the Oshkosh 1972 EAA Fly-In.
With camera in hand I a\ran anxiously over to where it stood What a sleek
little bird, with one of the best looking paint jobs I'd ever seen. no checkerboards
or upside down names. Just long smooth black and yellow slashes for stripes
over blue and white. I stood there, flying a model of that biplane in my
mind. One week later the plans were drawn and I started building.
The EAA is the most cooperative on pictures and three-view drawings,
right up to the plans for the real thing, which are available from them.
plane has rather slim wings (narrow chord), a fairly long nose moment and
good tail areas. Try to keep the weight to six pounds, although mine is
seven pounds and flies fine.
The nose is built right into the fuselage and then cut away when fitted
to the engine elected. A little of the right front side of the cowl, back
to F-3, is attached to the front block F-1. This is doweled and screwed
on, thus completely eliminating a fiberglass cowl. The fuselage sides are
1/8" sheet balsa with 1/32" doublers contact cemented to them. Former F-2
is really the front block, because the one-inch thick noseblock is removable.
F-2 gets cut out, as does the 1/8" sheet side in front, to accommodate the
engine use. This is done on the right front side, of course.
The sides are glued to formers F-3 and F-6B. This is done upside down,
so that the top of the sides provides a straight edge from which to work.
Then add F-7B and F-2. Draw center lines on all former pieces, as this facilitates
their proper location with relation to the sides. The top of the side is
also the thrust line. Now add F-2 and join the sides at the rear with the
tailblock. Insert F-8, F-9, F-10, F-11, and F-12. Top rear turtledeck can
be made two ways: 3/32" sheet over a 9 1/4" stringer or, as I did it (the
lazy man's way), a 1/2" sheet from F-8 to F-10 rounded off.
The Acro-Sport's cowl is exceptionally clean, and is uninterrupted by
the usual vagaries of an exposed cylinder head, The Du-Bro Muff-l-aire
keeps things quiet, yet neat. The nose of a bipe gets lots of attention,
so treat it with respect.
By superimposing partial formers on a box fuselage, the sweeping contours
of the cowl can be fabricated with less effort than with fiberglass.
The bane of most bipes is the cabane "birdcage." The Acre-Sport simply
employs an aluminum blank to get the job done.
This view gives an excellent angle on those wings, which have a distinctively
Cutaway of the Full-Scale Acro-Sport.
From F-10 to the rear of the fin is 1/16" sheet beveled on its edges
to provide a smooth fillet. The bottom is 3/32" sheet. I installed a Tatone
mount on F-3 and blocked off the left side of the cowl below the engine
to get better circulation around the head. This cooling of the engine is
critical. Cut out enough cowl to get air around the engine head. The opening
on the front right hand side of the cowl is cut out and lets air in. A rule
of thumb is: Let at least twice as much air out as goes in. I can't stress
The landing gear was made from one piece of 3/32" thick T-6 aluminum
bent to shape. The axle is of 5/32 wire which runs up to simulated shock
absorbers. The gear could be made entirely of wire and strapped to the hardwood
blocks. This would also be lighter. Wheel pants are Williams Bros. with
a 1/4" balsa sheet around the wheel (tapered to 1/16 at the front and back)
epoxied between the two halves. It's essentially a spacer to thicken the
wheel pant, with a cutout for the wheel.
The cabane struts can be made
two ways, either solid or as a strip. Bend up a sheet of 3/32" T-6 aluminum
after laying out and cutting "N" struts in their proper location.
The second method is to use some 7/16 x 3/32" T-6 aluminum bent up to
the sizes shown on the plan. Then add cross struts with pop rivets, or epoxy
to form an "N."
The cabanes are bolted with 4-40 screws and blind nuts onto the 3/32"
ply plate between F-5 and F-6. This ply plate is glued on top of the fuselage
sides. Good alignment of the cabanes is assured because they are made and
checked on a flat surface and then mounted on the fuselage. Shims may be
added, if necessary, after flying to get proper trim. The interplane struts
are made from 1/16" plywood, then sanded and sealed with Hobbypoxy. They
are fastened to small brackets which are epoxied in the foam or built-up
Their placement fore and aft in the wing is not critical (± 1/4" is good
enough) but the spanwise location gives the proper slant to the strut between
the wings. These struts are placed outside (toward the top) of the brackets
and have a 3-48 blind nut pressed in them. This blind nut is located and
transferred through the bracket. Use nylon screws, if available. They are
strong enough for flying pressures but will shear off, saving the wings,
if ever necessary.
Now that the cabanes have been made and fitted, sheet and plank the fuselage.
I used 3/32" sheeting on gentle curves, (top and bottom of fuselage, rear
sides, etc.). Plank around the cheeks of the cowl with beveled 3/16" strips.
The 3/16" can easily be sanded to the correct thickness. This is only a
small area on each side of the nose. Blocks of balsa were used on the lower
front nose. A sheet of 1/2" balsa on the lower center front blends in with
the F-1 nose block.
Use your own judgment on where to fill, because it's easier to see than
to draw or explain. I still think this method of constructing the cowl is
faster and cheaper than a fiberglass one, which could crack or chip. There
is a semi-circular shield around the exhaust pipes on the real Acro-Sport.
I simulated this with a piece of 3/8" balsa cut in a half-moon shape about
1/4" thick and glued on the bottom front.
The fin, rudder, stab, and elevator are of soft 1 /4" sheet. Hinges are
Robart hinge points which give a scale-like appearance.
The windshield was cut from a 13" Sig canopy. It blends perfectly with
the fuselage. The cockpit is edged with black 1/4" neoprene fuel line. This
is slit and glued on. A 2" diameter spinner finishes off the nose.
The wings can be of conventional built-up ribs and spars or of the foam
type. I chose foam, which is slightly heavier, but stronger for banging
around. Foam wings are old hat anymore, so I won't spend much time discussing
their construction, other than to say: Be sure to fiberglass at least a
6" wide band at the center section. Both wings are straight with no taper.
The top one is flat, the bottom has 3/4" under each tip. Four 8-32 nylon
screws hold the top wing to the cabanes. Two 10-32 nylon screws and a LE
dowel hold on the lower wing.
By now you have spent some time constructing and you're ready to try
all the parts for fit. I put the whole plane together, uncovered. Fit the
interplane struts. Then, when satisfied, cover everything with light blue
and white MonoKote. The aileron drive rods connect the lower and upper wing
ailerons. Use a Du-Bro Kwik-Link for adjustment on one end and a solder
link on the other. I slipped this rod into a chrome-plated K&S 1/8"
diameter tube, after applying some Silastic to the rod. Push rods are your
own option. Install the radio where you want it and you're set to fly.
Balance at or ahead of the CG shown and give the little bird a try. Add
power slowly till the plane is moving, then get off the elevators and steer
gently with rudder. She'll fly off nicely at half throttle. Once airborne
and heading out, pour the coals to her. This little bipe is truly something
to flip over.
Note: The Acro-Sport placed a respectable fourth at Jerry Nelson's Bipe
Contest this season, which speaks well of its potential in the new N.S.P.A.
of the model, showing both foam
and built-up wing.
Designed by Bob Schultheis Technical Art by Bill Blake
EAA Acro-Sport Plans
<click for larger version>
The AMA Plans Service offers a full-size
version of many of the plans show here at a very reasonable cost. They will scale the plans any size for you. It is always
best to buy printed plans because my scanner versions often have distortions that can cause parts to fit poorly. Purchasing
plans also help to support the operation of the Academy of Model
Aeronautics - the #1 advocate for model aviation throughout the world. If the AMA no longer has this plan on file, I
will be glad to send you my higher resolution version.
Try my Scale Calculator for Model Airplane Plans.
Posted March 22, 2012